Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Printemps - Christmas Windows 2011

The windows of the grand magasins on Boulevard Haussman have something for everyone. 
The theme of the Printemps windows:

Noël, Rêves d'Evasion

(Happy Birthday, Renée!)

64, boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Le Moulin de la Vierge - boulangerie

If you have been reading my blog for some time, you know how I enjoy "a hunt" and definitely love "a story."  Before my recent trip to Paris, blog friend Louis la Vache (San Francisco Bay Daily Photo) asked if I could get a photo of Le Moulin de la Vierge on rue Vercingétorix (14ième arr.)

I coaxed Peter (Peter's Paris) to make the trip with me, and we were delighted with the pain from the wood-fired oven, the tile walls, the murals of women holding armfuls of wheat, the mural on the ceiling, the etched glass doors...

This is the story behind this charming boulangerie as told by Louis:

The boulangerie is operated by Basil Kamir, a former music promoter turned boulanger. He inadvertently became one of the leaders of the renaissance of artisan baking in Paris specifically and France in general.

Kamir was using the then-closed boulangerie as his office when an "urban renewal" project in the neighborhood deemed that the building would be destroyed. Basil loved the building with its marble counter, copper fixtures, and fine details.  He couldn't allow the building to be destroyed.

Because of his work in the music business, he knew the Minister of Culture. A call was placed to the Minister, Basil pleading for intervention to save the boulangerie building. Calls were made, arms were twisted.

The Minister of Culture phoned Basil and said (in effect), "I've got good news and bad news. The good news is the building will be saved. The bad news is that it must be used again as a boulangerie."

Basil protested, "I don't know how to bake!"

To which the Minister replied, "Well, you had better learn!"

And he did. And in doing so, became a leader in the rediscovery of artisan baking, away from pain industriel, and also became one of the leaders in introducing biologique (organic) flours into baking.
But it didn't happen without some delicious Gallic drama.

A wrecking crew complete with a crane fitted with a wrecking ball showed up in front of the boulangerie. Somehow, the word didn't filter down through the bureaucracy that the building was not to be destroyed.
Basil practically came to blows with the crew. He went back into the boulangerie, and came out with a shotgun. The crew wouldn't back down, and neither would Basil. After some time of this impasse, Basil, took his shotgun and went to the basement, crawled into the wood-fired oven (at this point still long unused) with his shotgun and told the wrecking crew they would have to take him out!

Panicked calls were made and finally the wrecking crew got the Official Bureaucratic Word not to destroy the building.  (You can get additional detail from Louis' post here - Merci beaucoup, Louis)

Here is the link to Peter's comprehensive post of the boulangerie. 

Le Moulin de la Vierge
104, rue Vercingétorix
75014 Paris
Métro Pernety

Monday, November 28, 2011

Carrousel Jules-Verne -- Parc de Monceau

This little carrousel is new to Parc de Monceau since my visit last April.  It is called Carrousel Jules Verne and looks like a slice of the 19th century with its submarine, camel, and camion de pompiers.  The setting in this park is perfect, enjoyed by children in neighborhood and by this wandering photographer.

You know that I love to find carrousels and what a treat to see this one where there had been none.  Please note that the rotation is counterclockwise.

Carrousel Jules Verne
at the entrance of Parc de Monceau
Boulevard de Courcelles
75008 Paris

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Église Notre Dame du Travail

While on my way to another destination, I found this church which was built between 1899 and 1901 for the working neighborhood all in steel and iron.  It is interesting that this church was constructed in the same period as La Tour Eiffel and perhaps by some of the same laborers.

The art nouveau design of the organ is nestled in the midst of the iron and steel, providing a soft touch to this interesting church.

bon dimanche

Église Notre Dame du Travail
36, rue Guilleminot
75014 Paris

Saturday, November 26, 2011

French girl?

Must be a French girl woman?

I barely caught this one! 
Truthfully, I was going for the dog
and then was surprised at the knee britches, the scarf,
and... tell me that those tights do NOT match the scarf!

Friday, November 25, 2011

Printemps Christmas Windows - Karl Lagerfeld

The animated windows at Printemps are delightful.
La Tour Eiffel and photographers?  Parfait!

I did have to gently nudge a child or two to get this shot.

75009 Paris

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Les fleurs de Paris

It may be November,
but there is never a shortage of flowers in Paris

Today I am thankful for all the friends from around the world
that I have come to know through the blogs

Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré
75008 Paris

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Le Métro et BHV

The Métro sign at Hotel de Ville and the Christmas lights of BHV (Bay Aash Vay)
are as colorful as the double-decker carrousel.

The full moon had some serious competition this night

BHV (Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville)
Métro Hotel de Ville
Rue de Rivoli et Rue de Lobau
75004 Paris

Tuesday, November 22, 2011


What a shame that I did not capture him "snapping the linens"
as he waved each smartly pressed square over the table. 

As I recall, he was poetry in motion.

La Vinoteca
32, rue Courcelles
75008 Paris

Monday, November 21, 2011

La saison des champignons

My dear young friend Isabelle from Bordeaux introduced me to the delicious cèpes seen above in Marché Maubert.  She took me to a delightful restaurant serving authentic Savoyard fondue with a generous mix of cèpes.  November is mushroom season as you can see from the selection above.  In addition to the cèpes and girolle, there were coulmelles, trompettes, and pied mouton.

I learn much with every trip and will share the restaurant with you on another post.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This ancient church built in the 12th Century boasts a romanesque tower and other treasures within.  Parts of the church remain from the 6th century beginnings.  It is undergoing a much-needed restoration to bring it back to its former glory.
Did you know that the heart of Descartes is interred here? 
The rest of him is at the Pantheon. 

The fantastic acoustics enhance performances of Gregorian chants,
 and the medieval surroundings make a haunting backdrop.

bon dimanche

Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés
3, place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
75006 Paris

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Sergei Loier - Photoquai 2011

On the last day of Photoquai 2011, an open-air exhibit along the Seine at Quai Branly, the dreary day was brightened by the nearly 400 photo images by 46 photographers from around the world.  I met Vreni (Verenas Paris Blog and Vienna Daily Photo) and we enjoyed the afternoon strolling through this free exhibit.

The above by Sergei Loier, a 30-something Russian, was my favorite.  As I remember, his models are all children from an orphanage, and by the time he concluded his photo project, all had been adopted.

What a treat to see this eclectic photo exhibit... on the very last day!

Photoquai 2011
musée du quai Branly
37, quai Branly
75007 Paris

Friday, November 18, 2011

Pâtisserie - Julien IV

Photos may be prohibited, but drooling on the glass is allowed

I will have un macaron pistache framboise, s'il vous plaît.
And for you?

bon weekend

73, ave Franklin D Roosevelt
75008 Paris

Thursday, November 17, 2011

A Pilgrimage to Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois

For years I have wanted to see this amazing tribute to Rudolph Nureyev, a fringed kilim rug meticulously crafted in bronze and glass mosaics by Ezio Frigerio.  The loose drapes of rug over the "traveling trunk" is a bright gem in the Russian Orthodox Cemetery, an homage to Nureyev's Bashkir heritage.

His funeral, the civil ceremony, was at Opéra Garnier in the rococo foyer after an elegant procession up the grand staircase.  The devotees of Nureyev payed their respects as an orchestra played Tchaikovsky and Bach.  The splendor of Garnier was left behind and he was buried in the Russian cemetery at Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois.

One week ago, Peter (Peter's Paris) and I made the journey by train, by bus, and on foot to the remote town.  As a town it is oblivious to the cemetery and does not encourage the tourists with signs of direction.  For two hours we saw only the custodians of the cemetery as we walked among the graves, a quiet time in this spectacular resting place of the great dancer and choreographer.

To read more about Rudolph Nureyev, the biography Nureyev, the Life (2007) by Julie Kavanagh is spellbinding.

Rudolph Nureyev (1938-1993)
Russian Orthodox Cemetery

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

La Tour Eiffel - disappearing act

So the day was not filled with sun...
A low ceiling obscured the uppper floors of buildings, and
gave a mysterious look to La Tour

La Tour Eiffel
Quai Branly
75007 Paris

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Stepping out...

This little angel was seen stepping off the curb of Rue Théophile Roussel just at the edge of Marché d'Aligre.  A little unsteady on her feet, she was moving at a steady pace all the same!

Monday, November 14, 2011

Cimetière Montmartre

When I visit a city, I always search out the cemeteries.  This was my first trip to Montmartre, and it was regrettably closed.

We could only peer from the bridge down the lonely center road  

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Malcolm Miller, Chartres Cathedral expert

On Sundays, I usually feature a church.

Today, I am presenting a portrait of Malcolm Miller, who is likely the foremost authority on Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres.  He has been giving lecture tours of this world famous cathedral for over 50 years and says that he continues to learn new details.

If you have an opportunity to see Chartres Cathedral, be sure to search out Mr. Miller for better understanding of the details, stories and mysteries of the cathedral.  He will demand your attention much like a professor of his students and delight you with his humor and intimate knowledge.

bon dimanche

Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres
Chartres, France 

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Le Temps des Cerises

The scene reflects the texture of the wall and a very kind Frenchman!

Le Temps des Cerises
75018 Paris

Friday, November 11, 2011

Café de Luna

Café de Luna receives so-so ratings
but with a red awning on a busy corner of Boulevard de Clichy
I could stop by for a coffee and watch the moving scenery!

Café de Luna
122, boulevard de Clichy
75018 Paris
Métro Blanche or
Métro Place de Clichy

Thursday, November 10, 2011

L'Atelier - Orla Kiely

Walking with Peter and Marie down Rue Tholozé in April, I captured this shot through the open door of an atelier."  What I did not know from this unasuming scene is that Orla Kiely is an award-winning fashion designer.

I discover much as a detail-oriented photographer.

Orla Kiely
4, rue Tholozé
75018 Paris
Métro Abbesses 

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Le Moulin de la Galette

Perhaps a tourist shot, but a delightful place for déjeuner with friends

Le Moulin de la Galette
83, rue Lepic
75018 Paris

Monday, November 7, 2011

Façade blanche

On the deuxième étage high above the shops of Rue des Abbesses is this fashionable façade, wrought iron railings, boxes of greenery and flowers, shuttered balcony windows,
and a touch of rouge in the awnings.

Do not forget to look up!

Rue des Abbesses
et Rue Burq
75018 Paris

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Église Saint Étienne du Mont

The churches of Paris are museums of sculpture, architecture, and paintings. 
Église Saint-Étienne du Mont is abundantly overflowing in its richness.

bon dimanche

Église Saint-Étienne du Mont
1, place Ste-Geneviève
75005 Paris

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Un ombre

The grillwork of the entryway
makes long, ornate shadows in the foyer

3, rue Antoine Vollon
75012 Paris
Métro Ledru Rollin

Friday, November 4, 2011

Une moto rose - Zoom-zoom

On the street, a pink scooter...

Now, that's my style!


Thursday, November 3, 2011

Le Square Trousseau

I have seen this restaurant/café on three or four trips to Paris
but have never stopped for a coffee. 
Why, you ask?
I am always full from a stop at blé sucré or from the other direction,
the pâtisseries of Marché d'Aligre... 

Perhaps the next time

Restaurant Le Square Trousseau
1, rue Antoine Vollon
75012 Paris
Métro Ledru Rollin

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Caryatids in Paris

These caryatids* are high above the street level on Rue de Provence and support the balcony of the deuxième étage.  Although this building does not have the architect's name and date of construction like my previous post, one might guess that this building was designed late 19th or early 20th century.  Well, after looking at many of these caryatids and two architecture books, one can see that this Greek influence has been felt for centuries.   The earliest known examples are seen in the treasuries of Delphi (6th century BC) and the Caryatid Porch of the Erechtheion on the Acropolis in Athens.

The caryatids are by Édouard Lormier (1847-1919) who made his debut at the Salon in 1886.  He specialized in evocative works of the Art Deco era and is best known for his figures of beautiful women in flowing drapes. (Thank you detective Malyss) 

*caryatid -A sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support taking the place of a column or a pillar

73, rue de Provence
(at Rue Chassée d'antin)
75009 Paris

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Sculpture and vines - Ciné 13 Théâtre

I think that these vines have been growing for more than a few years.
What do you think?
Do you think that the sculpture over the window would show better without?

Ciné 13 Théâtre
1, ave Junot
75018 Paris