The chancel screen of Chartres Cathedral displays an impressive astrological clock dating from the 16th century. It told not only the time but the day of the week, the month of the year, the time of sunrise and sunset, the phase of the moon and the current sign of the zodiac. Its inner works were partially destroyed in 1793.
With the thousands of stained glass windows one could almost miss this treasure
In April, I returned to the thrice-weekly marché in Place Maubert to deliver a portrait that I had taken in June 2010. As I have mentioned before, I carry back to Paris on each trip a small folio of portraits that I have taken. When possible I deliver the photograph to the subject, reminding them when the shot was taken. Although I am a master of stealth photography almost all of the "returns" were taken with permission.
So, back to the story... In April I was delivering the photo below and this fellow in yellow saw the exchange asking if he was not handsome enough to have his photo taken. Bien sûr! When I arrive in Paris in three weeks I will have the top photo tucked into my bag and will find him to renew acquaintances. I always enjoy the triangle-folded treats from these vendors and in April they would not let me pay.
Nothing like making friends in Paris, n'est-ce pas?
blé sucré is relatively new on the Paris bakery scene when one considers the legends of Ladurée and Pierre Hermé. Founded by patissier Fabrice Le Bourdat, the list of temptations is long. The quality is high and yet the prices are not. So, what should you choose?
He was perhaps most known for his theatrical works, including three Figaro plays: Le Barbier de Séville, Le Mariage de Figaro, and La Mère coupable.
Determined to publish Voltaire's complete works, many of which were banned, he bought the rights to the manuscripts and set up a print shop in Germany. He was instrumental in saving many of Voltaire's works which might otherwise have been lost.
This statue by Louis Clausade (1895) sits in a triangle in the Marais.
How do you get a shot without a tourist in Montmartre?
You walk around the corner... not very scenic but for me it was all about the color rouge and the name of this piano bar in Montmartre. I remember the first time I heard about a "tire bouchon" and have loved the name for a "wine opener" ever since.
Remember if you buy one in Paris for your picnics in the parks, you will probably have to check it in your luggage if you are flying to the United States. I have discovered that I can fly "to" Paris with one in my carry-on bag, but not back home. Odd?
Brasserie Bofinger was opened in 1864 and has a reasonable claim to being the first of the Parisian brasseries. It was quite tiny in those days, not much larger than a bar serving draught beers and charcuterie. Today it takes up the whole street of rue de la Bastille with bright red awnings embellished with a large gold "B." The rich dark woods, shining brass and banquettes are remarkable, but the focal point is the intricate glass dome above the main dining room. Bofinger seats 300 and each day a staff of around 100 serve over 800 dinners. Although tourists have found this brasserie, it has a reputation as a place where French writers, academics and politicians frequent.
I was taken with the fine wood doors and lace-curtained windows,
In Lisbon the Metrolitano Picoas station has a very French Guimard entrance, a gift from RATP. In exchange, the Portuguese ceramist and painter Manuel Cargaleiro created these tiles, giving the Métro Champs-Elysées Clemenceau station a unique atmosphere.
This photo is yet another view of Église Saint Philippe du Roule showing more of the detail that graces this church built between 1774 and 1784 on the site of a former hospital and chapel. You can see the photos and links from my previous posts here, here, and here.
It sits across the street from a Métro stop of the same name and a fabulous pâtisserie.