The Hôtel Biron, built in 1728, has served as the Musée Rodin since 1919, and is situated on over 7 acres (3 hectacres) of gardens and sculptures. This grand entrance is a prelude to the amazing work of Rodin contained within these 18th Century walls.
The museum features the work of Rodin's muse, Camille Claudel, and others. When an exhibit dedicated to Claudel was held in the spring of 2008, there were over 150,000 visitors to the museum. Thinking it would be fabulous to see, I arrived to find a line that snaked for an eternity.
The Métro de Paris is an easy system to navigate, and with a few simple instructions, color-coded lines, one can cross Paris with ease. The maps are consistent in the color assigned each of the 16 lines, and the Métro stations themselves are well-marked with signs so you will arrive at the proper platform (headed in the correct direction). Before you leave a station, a map on the wall will show you the exit(s) and where you will be at street level. I have found that a compass or an iPhone app with a compass is helpful as you come up to the street in an unfamiliar area.
The photo above was taken for the chic attire of this Métro passenger, but it reminds me that some of the stations are quite large with long walks to make connections to another line.
On one of the "pâtisserie hunt" days we decided to look for the best croissants in Paris.
No, not at Pierre Hermé, but here on Boulevard Beaumarchais, near Place de la Bastille.
The authentic croissant au beurre is a rare treat and tastes nothing like those made with margerine and bought in a grocery. Marie and I popped in here and took out two wrapped in waxed paper, still warm.
We ate them on the street in front of Au Levain du Marais. I will spare you those photos.
Au Levain du Marais
28, Boulevard Beaumarchais
(at corner of Rue du Pasteur Wagner)
To see Shell Sherree's lovely art and interpretation of this boulangerie, go here to see!
This Renaissance structure was constructed by Mansart between 1632 and 1634 under the direction of François de Sales and Jeanne de Chantal. Originally, it was the old Marais parish church known as the Saint-Marie Temple. Spared during the Revolution, it was converted into a Protestant church in 1802. It has a variety of Protestant Sunday services in French, Japanese, Arabic, and a service labeled Afro-Carribbean.
When I took this photo, it was for the large doors of red, but in reading about this church I feel compelled to return when it is open. There are tours one Sunday each month.
Église Réformée du Marais 17, rue Saint-Antoine 75004, Paris
This previously unnamed (by me) carrousel was closed for repairs in April. I arrived there to capture a warm weather scene of riders, but found it covered. The workmen said "non" when I asked to photograph inside, but at least I found the name for this merry-go-round, "Les Anges Volants." Oh, I will show you the forbidden photos another time.
If you have been reading my blog for a time, you know how I seek out carousels. I am linking today to Alexa's The Road is Mine as she has a fabulous carousel which has an amazing story of rescue and restoration.
I have walked past this doorway several times when it was ajar and did not step through. There is no courtyard beyond, only a hall. With both doors closed it is better to admire the architecture and style. The windows and balconies above indicate a nice place to live on this busy street and only two doors away from Dalloyau!
(This post is for Vreni, who loves the blue doors of Paris as much as I do)
This is only a portion of the entryway to Propriété de la Société des Cuisiniers de Paris found on Rue Saint-Roch, just around the corner from Avenue de l'Opéra. The architect's name is etched into the façade, along with the date: Bruno Pellissier, arch't. 1917.
Remember to "look up"
Propriété de la Société des Cuisiniers de Paris 45, rue Saint Roch 75001 Paris
Just outside of Paris is Église Saint-Aignan de Chartres, not nearly as well known as the Chartres Cathedral, but exquisite in detail and color. Established in 400 AD, most of the building today dates from the Sixteenth Century.
Although you may first think of the Seine, the banks of Canal Saint Martin provide a quiet spot to watch the boats and people. You can watch the locks as boats pass through in this section of the canal, listen to the sounds of a guitar, enjoy a picnic in the shade of the trees, or visit an adjacent café or bistrot. On Sundays the two streets running parallel to the canal (Quai de Jemmapes and Quai de Valmy) are reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.
There are more than 81 miles of canals and underground waterways in Paris which means for me that there is much more to explore and photograph.
The oldest street market in Paris, established in 1547, Marché Maubert is open Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. But, do not be late as the stalls will close by 2:30 or 3, and you will not find the sumptuous stacks of artichokes, leeks, and carrots. There are stands for flowers, rugs, pashminas, fromage, fleur de sel, textiles from Provence, meats, seafood, carry out food (prête à emporter) pour manger sur le pouce.
I have featured this marché before as it was my "neighborhood" for many trips to Paris. I will visit my friends there very soon, to buy their produce and cheeses, and to take their photos again and to recall the snow and cold of last December and the wonderful weather of my last visit in April. Of course, I will have some photos in my pocket...
On a Sunday morning in Square Trousseau, these three gentlemen were seen strolling through the park. My guess is that they are old friends who meet here regularly to talk about their families, their thoughts on politics, or current events in the neighborhood. I will have three copies of this photo for my next trip on the chance that I see them again on a Sunday morning.
Église Saint Pierre de Montmartre is not singularly outstanding, but the soft light of stained glass in the apse seems a promise of hope. I am thinking today of all those touched directly and indirectly by the events of ten years ago.
Église Saint Pierre de Montmartre
2, rue du Mont-Cenis
A little break from the streets of Paris brought us here to Dalloyau, a renown pâtisserie, on Boulevard Beaumarchais. I previously showed you the Bubble Pêche featured in the window that morning. The inside of Dalloyau is just as much a treat as the macarons (and l'Opéra) we devoured with our noisette and café crème. We were on a mission. The pâtisserie hunt continues...
This wall in the Square Jehan-Rictus (next to Métro Abbesses) is the site for the "I Love You" art of deep cobalt blue tiles. The wall is covered in 612 tiles of the same size and color, on which the words "I love you" have been written in 311 languages and dialects. The tile wall was created in 2000 by Frederic Baron, an author and composer, along with Claire Kito, a calligraphy specialist. The writing is in white with sparse accents of Paris rouge.
There are thousands of photos on the internet of the wall and the small enclosed park but I thought that you would like to see this small detail which sits above the dark blue tiles, and was on this day framed by chartreuse leaves and dappled sunlight. It is Rita Hayworth by artist Rue Meurt d'Art, and a loose translation is, "Loving is chaos... so, let's love." (Please correct me, you Frenchies) If you look closely just to the right of Ms. H. you will see a ghost. It is an outline of Ava Gardner who originally graced this wall. C'est une mystère...
I Love You Wall Square Jehan-Rictus Métro Abbesses 75018 Paris
Between the Métro Cardinal Lemoine and Église Saint Etienne du Mont, we happened upon this bright fushia (rose foncé) building and sign. The style reminded me more of the signs seen in Zurich than in Paris, but the boulangerie definitely brightened up this intersection on Rue Monge. It is reported to have excellent baguettes.
(This is for Starman, who wanted to see some color)
La Parisienne Boulangerie
28, rue Monge