Solitude at Palais Royal

Le Jardin du Palais Royal...

On a cloudy day in November, you can have the garden all to yourself.

(Joyeaux anniversaire, Daddy)

Le Jardin du Palais Royal

75002 Paris

Une tarte de baies

This tart full of berries just makes my mouth water.

Does that mean it is good for you?

(Tant pis... I had something much more sinful, abundant in chocolate)

La Petite Rose
11, boulevard de Courcelles
75008 Paris

Le Grand Colbert

I took this photo last December not knowing that Marie, our concierge (J), and I would enjoy a dinner here in April.  We sat adjacent to Alan Alda, his wife, and another couple, but left them to dine in peace. 

However, I was humming the theme from Mash off and on.

Don't you think that this would be a great place to ring in the new year?

Allons-y!

Le Grand Colbert
2, rue Vivienne
75002 Paris

La Tour Eiffel - en hiver

It was a dark and snowy night but the twinkling of la Tour lights up the December sky.

(Taken from the Suresnes American Cemetery, in the suburbs of Paris, only five miles from city center.  The 7.5 acre cemetery contains the graves of 1,541 Americans who died in World War I and 24 Unknown American War Dead from World War II.  The cemetery is located high on the slopes of Mont Valerien)

Suresnes American Cemetery
123, Boulevard Washington
92150 Suresnes

Apiculteur parisien

This friendly gentleman with a delightful sense of humor has a boutique, Les Abeilles,

selling honey and other "bee-products" on La Butte aux Cailles. 

You can even buy all that you need to set up as a beekeeper. 

He is an expert in les abeilles, miel, cire d'abeilles, a true apiculture parisien!

A purchase of honey and beeswax candles was made after a delightful visit with him in the petite shop.  Two large vats of honey along with all the other products give the small space a sweet aroma.

Monsieur Schakmundès became my newest Paris friend,

and I will carry this portrait back to him in January.

(for Holly, the Queen Bee)

Les Abeilles
21, rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
75013 Paris

Carrousel Venitien - Place Saint-Pierre

Wondering what to do in Paris this week?

You can ride 20 carousels for free (gratuit) between December 17th and January 1, 2012

between the hours of 10am and 7pm. 

Here is the link to the list with the arrondissement and location of each.

The beautiful double-decker Carrousel Venitien is not one of them

but it has a wonderful view of Sacré Coeur.

(another counter-clockwise rotation)

Carrousel Venitien du XVIIIème Siècle
Place Saint-Pierre
Montmartre
75018 Paris

A child is born...

 

Joyeux Noël

Église Saint Roch

284, rue Saint Honoré

75001 Paris

Gâteau d'anniversaire

The imperfect gâteau, ready for the day...

I will be taking care of the treasured fêves which adorn the top layer, bien sûr

(Note the story from last year)

Les poupées

Hoping that all the little French girls get the dolls of their dreams for Christmas.  These are sweet, but ma chère amie Winterludes has the most charming and detailed dolls and she even weaves stories around them.

We met on our mutual birthday in November at a salon de thé in Passage Jouffroy and each exchanged a handmade cadeau.  I cherish my little Winterlude doll with her exquisite hair and little dress, a delightful gift from a dear blog friend.

l'ourson en bois

83, rue Charenton

75012 Paris

La circulation de nuit

Regular night traffic or last minute gift shoppers?

Rue de Rivoli at

Place de la Concorde

Place de la Concorde

75008 Paris

Chanel at Printemps

If the "weather outside is frightful"

you can dream of warmer climes with this Printemps window.

Printemps

Boulevard Haussmann

75009 Paris

 

Parc de Monceau - artistes chinois

This is one of six contemporary Chinese creations, 

part of the exhibition Artistes Chinois à Paris, 

found in Parc de Monceau until the end of December.

As with artists from around the world and over the centuries, the Parisian training and experience has had a major impact on generations of Chinese artists.  

The Chinese artists featured in the park are currently living and working in Paris. 

 

Parc de Monceau

Boulevard Courcelles

75009 Paris

Galeries Lafayette - Noël 2009 vs Noël 2011

The grand dome sheltered the 66-foot tree in a traditional decor in 2009.  The boxes were re-wrapped for a different color scheme in 2010.  The giant red Christmas balls of 2008 were stunning.  The "rock'n mode" for 2011 is quite different as seen in my post last week.

Let's hope that we just "rock away" from this year's theme when the season is over.  The poster for Galleries Lafayette seen in the Métro stations just sums it up.

Galeries Lafayette
Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Église Notre Dame de Lorette

There has been much said about the gaudy interior of Notre Dame de Lorette, but I found it elegant, adorned with 19th Century art and a Cavaille-Col grand organ. 

The painter Eugene Delacroix lived nearby and was christened here in 1840.

The other stories of this large church refer to the "kept women" of the surrounding neighborhood.  Many wealthy men of this period had mistresses as well as wives and it is said that all attended Sunday services. 

Interesting, n'est-ce pas? 

That little fact was not included in the church literature I picked up in November.

bon dimanche

Église Notre Dame de Lorette

18, bis rue de Chateaudun

75009 Paris

  

Se souvenant de George Whitman

From the website of Shakespeare and Company...

"On Wednesday 14th December, 2011, George Whitman died peacefully at home in the apartment above his bookshop in Paris.  George suffered a stroke two months ago, but showed incredible strength and determination up to the end, continuing to read every day in the company of his daughter, Sylvia, his friends and his cat and dog.  He died two days after his 98th birthday.

Nicknamed the Don Quixote of the Latin Quarter, George will be remembered for his free spirit, his eccentricity and his generosity.  He will be buried at Père Lachaise cemetery in the good company of other men and women of letters..."

Rest peacefully, gentle angel

Shakespeare and Company

37, rue Bûcherie

75005 Paris

Paris chic

Do you need an elegant ballgown for your holiday parties?

Reflect on these... bon weekend!

Pronovias (of Barcelona)

7, rue Saint Roch

75001 Paris

Galeries Lafayette - Noel 2011

Under the exquisite dome of Galeries Lafayette,

the large tree towers many levels above the rez de chaussée.

I was a bit disappointed to see the "Rock'n Mode" theme

and would have preferred something a bit more elegant

such as the hot pink packages and bows or the giant red balls of previous years.

I am a romantic at heart,

and rock'n the tree was not what I was wishing for.

Galeries Lafayette
Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

French girl XII

With her blond hair flying,

she sped through the park dodging the other children. 

She is practicing for her next, larger vehicle....

zoom-zoom!

Parc de Monceau

75008 Paris

Le camion vert?

Although this little zoom-zoom was seen in a shop window,

I wonder its intended use. 

Maybe we should take it out for a spin?

Rue St Benoit

75006 Paris

Bonhomme de neige - Dalloyau

This snowman is not for the fainthearted, those on a diet... or on a budget.

He would be pretty cute to serve for a little dinner party!

Dalloyau

63, rue de Grenelle

75007 Paris

Métro Rue du Bac, Sèvres-Babylone

Romanian Orthodox Church of the Holy Archangels Michael, Gabriel and Raphael

How could I have missed this church for so many years? 

It is just around the corner from Place Maubert nestled between two ordinary buildings. 

 It was closed but showed signs of an active congregation. 

I will be back...

bon dimanche

Romanian Orthodox Church of the Holy Archangels Michael, Gabriel and Raphael
9 bis, rue Jean de Beauvais
75005 Paris

Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois - Ginko leaves

A carpeted path of gold...

Russian Orthodox Cemetery

Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois

Printemps 2011 - Noël en Rouge

The red laquer chest and le dragon rouge captivate les flaneurs

in front of this window at Printemps.

The animated windows are spectacular but the genius of this still-life holds its own!

To the right of this shot is an exotic crested bird 

which I will post once I can "name" it.

bon weekend!

  

Printemps
Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Un carrousel?

At first glance this could be a rather sporty red Peugeot moto (with pink accents) 

alongside a poster advertising soap from Reims. 

With a longer view one sees a carrousel

(with counterclockwise rotation)

zoom-zoom!

(Joyeux anniversaire, ma chère Holly!) 

Le Carrousel de la Gare Montparnasse
Métro Montparnasse Bienvenue

Le Square Trousseau IV

I went looking for les trois flaneurs with a photo for each. 

It was the same time, same park 

on a Sunday morning, temperate weather, people about...

The three gentlemen were not there,

but there were many children running, playing, riding scooters and bikes. 

The park was as lively as a circus!

(Happy Birthday, Cherie!)

Le Square Trousseau

Métro Ledru Rollin

75012 Paris



L'heure bleue

As I was waiting (somewhat) patiently for the full moon,

I looked over my shoulder to find these shades of pinks, purples and blues.

My Paris is always full of surprises and treasures. 

I know... she is not just mine, but alone this evening it felt like she was all mine.

Pont d'Arcole

(looking to Pont Notre Dame

and Pont au Change)

 

Le Reminet - un Paris bistrot

With so many options to dine in Paris, how do you find a great, reasonable meal?

Certainly, you should check internet reviews, but I would offer that reading blogger favorites may be a good place to start.  In June of 2010, Virginia (Paris Through My Lens) introduced me to Le Reminet.  She had met Meredith Mullins for déjeuner at Le Reminet at Meredith's suggestion.  The prices are quite reasonable at lunch if you guard your wine consumption and select from la formule.  The meals have been excellent and the friends I have sent there agree.  Often I enjoy a bit of a splurge at lunch and have just a light salad or baguette et fromage for dinner. 

Le Reminet has a lovely aubergine-colored entrance, a charming ambiance,

and it is situated on a narrow street in the 5ième near Notre Dame. 

Le Reminet

3, rue Grands Degrés

75005 Paris

Métro Maubert Mutualité



Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky Cathedral

On Rue Daru in the 8ième arrondissement, this Russian Orthodox church is nestled in a predominantly Russian neighborhood.  Although there are no photos allowed inside, the exterior is elegant, in the shape of a Greek cross.  Each branch of the cross is terminated by an apse, topped with onion dome turrets. 

Picasso was married to the dancer Olga Khokhlova in this church in 1918.  The cathedral celebrated its 150th anniversary in September this year, and just a week ago a charitable auction featuring works of 29 Russian painters living in Paris was held to benefit restoration of the cathedral. 

bon dimanche

Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky Cathedral

12, rue Daru

75008 Paris

Métro Ternes ou Métro Courcelles

   

Caryatid III

Walking to Parc de Monceau on Avenue Hoche

I noticed two caryatids high on a building supporting the balcony of the deuxième étage. 

As is typical with the caryatids seen in Paris, the two male figures were unique.

Look carefully on the left side of the figure at the bottom.  Do you see a tail?

Now, look at his chest.  Do you see a large paw with claws?

Now, look on top of his head.  What do you see?

I did not notice the details until reviewing the photos later.

Do not forget to look up.

Caryatids, E Ricard et Le Foll,
Architectes, 1892
4, avenue Hoche
75008 Paris

Repetto VIII

Dansez!

Repetto's window on Rue de la Paix is always on my list,

and the petite souris did not disappoint.

Dance, with all the joie de vivre in your heart

"Dancing can reveal all the mystery that music conceals." -- Charles Baudelaire

Repetto
22, rue de la Paix
75002 Paris

La Tour Eiffel, with a coat of living plants?

From Place de Catalogne, la Tour suddenly came into view.  When you look at this historical structure, can you imagine it clothed in green plants?  There is a company "Ginger" which is proposing to drape the tower with a mantle of 600,000 plants.  The story was leaked in Le Figaro, that there would be 12 tons of tubing attached to the tower's struts.  "Thousands of hemp or sack-cloth bags would carry soil and a large variety of plants would be added gradually over the second half of 2012." 

Can you imagine la Tour covered in living plants from head to toe? 

La Tour Eiffel, without a coat of plants

seen from Place de Catalogne

75014 Paris

Printemps - Christmas Windows 2011

The windows of the grand magasins on Boulevard Haussman have something for everyone. 

The theme of the Printemps windows:

Noël, Rêves d'Evasion

(Happy Birthday, Renée!)



Printemps
64, boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Le Moulin de la Vierge - boulangerie

If you have been reading my blog for some time, you know how I enjoy "a hunt" and definitely love "a story."  Before my recent trip to Paris, blog friend Louis la Vache (San Francisco Bay Daily Photo) asked if I could get a photo of Le Moulin de la Vierge on rue Vercingétorix (14ième arr.)

I coaxed Peter (Peter's Paris) to make the trip with me, and we were delighted with the pain from the wood-fired oven, the tile walls, the murals of women holding armfuls of wheat, the mural on the ceiling, the etched glass doors...

This is the story behind this charming boulangerie as told by Louis:

The boulangerie is operated by Basil Kamir, a former music promoter turned boulanger. He inadvertently became one of the leaders of the renaissance of artisan baking in Paris specifically and France in general.

Kamir was using the then-closed boulangerie as his office when an "urban renewal" project in the neighborhood deemed that the building would be destroyed. Basil loved the building with its marble counter, copper fixtures, and fine details.  He couldn't allow the building to be destroyed.

Because of his work in the music business, he knew the Minister of Culture. A call was placed to the Minister, Basil pleading for intervention to save the boulangerie building. Calls were made, arms were twisted.

The Minister of Culture phoned Basil and said (in effect), "I've got good news and bad news. The good news is the building will be saved. The bad news is that it must be used again as a boulangerie."

Basil protested, "I don't know how to bake!"

To which the Minister replied, "Well, you had better learn!"

And he did. And in doing so, became a leader in the rediscovery of artisan baking, away from pain industriel, and also became one of the leaders in introducing biologique (organic) flours into baking.

But it didn't happen without some delicious Gallic drama.

A wrecking crew complete with a crane fitted with a wrecking ball showed up in front of the boulangerie. Somehow, the word didn't filter down through the bureaucracy that the building was not to be destroyed.

Basil practically came to blows with the crew. He went back into the boulangerie, and came out with a shotgun. The crew wouldn't back down, and neither would Basil. After some time of this impasse, Basil, took his shotgun and went to the basement, crawled into the wood-fired oven (at this point still long unused) with his shotgun and told the wrecking crew they would have to take him out!

Panicked calls were made and finally the wrecking crew got the Official Bureaucratic Word not to destroy the building.  (You can get additional detail from Louis' post here - Merci beaucoup, Louis)

Here is the link to Peter's comprehensive post of the boulangerie. 

Le Moulin de la Vierge

104, rue Vercingétorix

75014 Paris

Métro Pernety

Carrousel Jules-Verne -- Parc de Monceau

This little carrousel is new to Parc de Monceau since my visit last April.  It is called Carrousel Jules Verne and looks like a slice of the 19th century with its submarine, camel, and camion de pompiers.  The setting in this park is perfect, enjoyed by children in neighborhood and by this wandering photographer.

You know that I love to find carrousels and what a treat to see this one where there had been none.  Please note that the rotation is counterclockwise.

Carrousel Jules Verne

at the entrance of Parc de Monceau

Boulevard de Courcelles

75008 Paris

  

Église Notre Dame du Travail

While on my way to another destination, I found this church which was built between 1899 and 1901 for the working neighborhood all in steel and iron.  It is interesting that this church was constructed in the same period as La Tour Eiffel and perhaps by some of the same laborers.

The art nouveau design of the organ is nestled in the midst of the iron and steel, providing a soft touch to this interesting church.

bon dimanche

Église Notre Dame du Travail

36, rue Guilleminot

75014 Paris

French girl?

Must be a French girl woman?

I barely caught this one! 

Truthfully, I was going for the dog

and then was surprised at the knee britches, the scarf,

and... tell me that those tights do NOT match the scarf!



Printemps Christmas Windows - Karl Lagerfeld

The animated windows at Printemps are delightful.

La Tour Eiffel and photographers?  Parfait!

I did have to gently nudge a child or two to get this shot.

Printemps

75009 Paris

Les fleurs de Paris

It may be November,

but there is never a shortage of flowers in Paris

Today I am thankful for all the friends from around the world

that I have come to know through the blogs

Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré

75008 Paris

Le Métro et BHV

The Métro sign at Hotel de Ville and the Christmas lights of BHV (Bay Aash Vay)

are as colorful as the double-decker carrousel.

The full moon had some serious competition this night

BHV (Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville)

Métro Hotel de Ville

Rue de Rivoli et Rue de Lobau

75004 Paris