Paris and Beyond

Des fleurs du printemps?

2012-03-02T00:01:00.002-04:00

The bright selection of flowers in this upscale fleuriste (Marie pour 360 Degrés) could not even be contained in the large windows of the shop. The colors spilled out across the street onto the columns of the Louvre.

Although spring is still almost three weeks away, these blooms give us a taste of warmer days filled with sunshine.

bon weekend

For more reflections go to James' Weekend Reflections

Marie pour 360 Degrés

6, rue de l'Amiral de Coligny

Métro Louvre-Rivoli

75001 Paris

Le Saint Médard Café - Paris friend

2012-03-01T00:01:00.002-04:00

After a delightful Sunday lunch in January, I encountered this friendly gentleman as he prepared deux express with the enviable Cafés Richard machine, gleaming of chrome. After a brief exchange about visitors and Paris, he agreed to a photo, and I will be taking a print to him when I return, bien sûr!

So, now I long for a Cafés Richard expresso/cappuccino machine along with the CR cups.

I can taste that coffee still!

Le Saint Médard Café
53, rue Censier
75005 Paris

Zoom-zoom - Jardin du Luxembourg

2012-02-29T00:01:00.000-04:00

Unless you have seen Jardin du Luxembourg on a weekend afternoon you cannot imagine the number of activities, families, children, singles...

Yes, you can even have a pony ride, a real one.

You can ride a carrousel with brass rings.

You can play a game of Pétanque.

You can sail a boat.

You can read a book while seated in a green chair with your feet propped on a fountain.

You can frolic on a playground that would never be allowed in our litigious country.

You can even get pulled around in a little green roadster... zoom-zoom!

Jardin du Luxembourg

75006 Paris

Jardin du Palais Royal - l'amour

2012-02-28T00:01:00.001-04:00

Spring is not even in the air, but the lovers in Jardin du Palais Royal are unaware of the season and the weather.

These two brought a bit of sunshine to the dreary January afternoon.

(pssst, I do not think they are French but not sure why)

Jardin du Palais Royal

75001 Paris

Nathalie Garçon - Galeries Vivienne

2012-02-27T00:01:00.000-04:00

I am sure that you do not have to wonder how I selected this boutique for a photo...

Yes, it was initially the red walls...

and then the amazing hand-blown glass chandelier...

It was not until I got home that I discovered this delightful grand couturier, Nathalie Garçon, who created her own line in 1989 after making a name for herself with Cacharel. Follow the link to see her website, to read more about her collaborations in many areas, and I think that you will love the music on her home page.... "Autrefois"

Nathalie Garçon

15-17 Galerie Vivienne

75002 Paris

Église Saint-Louis-en-l'Île

2012-02-26T00:01:00.001-04:00

The seventeenth century church on the island of Saint Louis was dedicated to Saint-Louis, Louis IX, King of France. The ornate Baroque style interior is in stark contrast to the somber exterior.

Although one may imagine this organ as a centuries-old masterpiece, it has a more recent history. It was made by Aubertin in 2004 (51 stops, 69 ranks) and blends seamlessly with the surrounding periods. As with many Paris churches there are multiple organs, and I will show you the chancel organ on another Sunday post.

So, before you stop in Berthillon for an ice cream, wander east on Rue St. Louis to see this magnificent church. You will notice the high, large clock which stands out as you look down the street.

bon dimanche

Église Saint-Louis-en-l'Île

19 bis, rue St Louis en l'Île

75004 Paris

From CDG to Paris

2012-02-25T00:01:00.003-04:00

When you arrive at CDG airport in Paris, how do you get into the city?

Oskar prefers to take the RER which is easy for him as he travels light... one small bag and he is ready to go. The price is good at 9,10€ allé simple (one way) and there are multiple options for stations and transfers after you get into the city. Be sure to hold onto your ticket as you will need it to exit any of the arrival stations. On my last trip into Paris with Oskar and Holly, we departed the RER B at Châtelet les Halles to walk several blocks to our apartment. Now, let me say that Châtelet les Halles is an enormous arrival station with many levels. We were simply headed for the exit at street level and did not have to take the stairs even once. We rode at least 5 escalators but no stairs either up or down.

Note: This does not work going the other direction!

Another option from CDG is the RoissyBus which leaves every 15 minutes from Terminals 1, 2, and 3 and arrives at Opéra (Rue Scribe and Rue Auber) for 10€ one way. You do get a more scenic view for your arrival in Paris and you do not have to be worried about the dreaded stairs. The return is just as simple with the departure from Opéra every 15 minutes.

If you are not concerned about the cost, you can simply take a taxi, but I can envision all the other ways to spend my Euros and with only carry-on luggage it is not that difficult to avoid a taxi. If you go to the links above you can plan for your arrival and transportation, deciding on the best option for your preferences and final destination in Paris.

Oskar says, "Bienvenue à Paris!"

Deux vélos

2012-02-24T00:01:00.003-04:00

In the elegant halls of Galerie Vivienne, this pair of bikes parked just around the corner of the old librarie (bookstore) founded in 1826. The large flat baskets on the front of each of these bikes appear to be the perfect transport for stacks of books.

I would love to think that I could sport around Paris on one of these, but the challenge of taking photos and riding would likely be a bad combination.

Would you ride a bike in Paris?

bon weekend!

Galerie Vivienne

Rue des Petits-Champs

75002 Paris

2012-02-23T00:01:00.000-04:00

Surely there is a story about this restaurant in Paris named... "Jet-Lag"

All that I have read is that it is an American style (?) restaurant with about two and a half stars (out of five) on several rating sites. Three additional questions:

Why would you put an American style restaurant on this wonderful street for foodies in Paris?

and.... why would you give it such a repulsive name?

Do you really want to eat in a place called "jet-lag"?

On a positive note, I do like the red and white café chairs and tables.

Jet-Lag

3, rue de Montorgueil

75001 Paris

Rue Mouffetard, timeless...

2012-02-22T00:01:00.002-04:00

Rue Mouffetard is a familiar sight, but the absence of diners and des flaneurs is a bit unusual. The gentleman's trenchcoat and hat is reminiscent of a past era. Certaintly, the scenery has not changed much along this street in the past fifty years. I think that the blackboards with the handwritten menus are the same although the food offerings have been updated to keep up with current tastes?

What do you think? In this area of Paris I am not so sure.

Today feels like a Monday to many.

If you are one who, like me, enjoyed the festivities of Mardi Gras...

Happy Monday and welcome to a short week!

Rue Mouffetard

75005 Paris

Mardi Gras!

2012-02-21T00:34:00.000-04:00

Today is Mardi Gras, Fat Tuesday, Carnivale....

It is last day to eat galette des rois, the last day of festivities before Ash Wednesday and Lent.

For us, far beyond Paris, we will be enjoying the last days of merriment, parades, and parties with hats.

Must be a French girl

2012-02-20T00:01:00.006-04:00

After posting the French-girl-wanna-be dressed in a red coat,

I thought that I would show you the genuine article.

Jardin du Luxembourg on a Sunday afternoon is a guaranteed treat for people-watchers and photographers. Virginia, Holly, and Isabelle joined me for an action-clicking afternoon. This little girl was running toward the large octagonal pool to watch the action of sailboats or perhaps the toy motor boats shown by Virginia here.

There was no shortage of action in all of Jardin du Luxembourg,

and I will have many more photos to show you in future posts.

Jardin du Luxembourg

75006 Paris

Église St. Gervais et St. Protais II

2012-02-19T00:01:00.001-04:00

This 17th century church, situated just to the east of Hôtel de Ville in the Marais, holds many interesting details. The church origins trace back to the 6th century and this current structure was built in Flamboyant Gothic style. On this bright January morning, the rows and rows of pew benches made long shadows in the patterned rug.

The church today is affiliated with the Monastic and Lay Communities of Jerusalem, which is committed to bring prayer to the city, at times that suit the schedules of working people with services beore the work day begins; during the lunch hours; and when the work day is finished.

bon dimanche

Église St. Gervais et St. Protais

Place Saint Gervais

75004 Paris

Must be a French girl...

2012-02-18T00:01:00.001-04:00

She has the style, the self-assured attitude, the certain je ne sais quoi...

Wait... Is that a LLBean backpack?

It is not a French girl, but close!

Rue d'Arcole

Ile de la Cité

75004 Paris

Un petit garçon en rouge

2012-02-17T00:01:00.005-04:00

Just before walking into the Basilique de Notre-Dame des Victoires,

I sensed a movement out of the corner of my eye.

Looking up to the left in this premier étage window,

I saw this little child actually licking the window.

By the time I could swing my lens his way,

he was looking wistfully down at the street

to the older children in the Place des Petits-Pères.

The church façade is reflected in the large windows.

Basilique Notre-Dame des Victoires

6, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires

(Rue de Banque et Rue des Petits-Pères)

Place des Petits-Pères

75002 Paris

Place de la Contrescarpe

2012-02-16T00:01:00.003-04:00

With all the active fountains in January,

I wonder how many are flowing in the frigid temperatures of February.

The bright winter sun illuminated the fountain in Place de la Contrescarpe,

offset by a background of rouge.

Place de la Contrescarpe

75005 Paris

Room with a view...

2012-02-15T00:01:00.002-04:00

Our apartment in Paris last month had this lovely view from the tall kitchen window.

The lace curtain filtered the early morning sun on the Haussmanian building

across Rue la Feuillades from our apartment.

Having un café et un croissant while admiring this view,

we almost felt like Parisiennes.

Rue la Feuillades

75002 Paris

L'amour dans le jardin

2012-02-14T00:01:00.002-04:00

In the center of Jardin du Palais Royal is a bench.

Except in freezing weather or during a rainstorm,

you will likely see a couple clenched in an embrace,

nothing too racy, but l'amour à Paris.

May you give a hug today and receive one in turn.

----------------------------

I have a treat for you...

a tray of Valentine cookies made to share (virtually) with my blog readers.

Who will bring the Champagne?

Happy Valentine's Day!

Jardin du Palais Royal
75001 Paris

Mobile in South Alabama, USA

Saint-Valentin?

2012-02-13T00:01:00.001-04:00

Seen in a shop window in the Marais,

this would make a great dress for a Valentine's Day party.

It will be a bit too much for my Valentine's Day plans!

Do you have anything special planned for tomorrow,

and do you give a Valentine or two?

Do you remember passing out Valentines to classmates,

maybe even decorating a box for yours?

Une vitrine en rouge

75004 Paris

Église St. Gervais et St. Protais

2012-02-12T00:01:00.000-04:00

With a storied history of musicians and composers, this Gothic church is filled with light.

The bright January sun doubled the beauty of this stained glass window.

bon dimanche

Église St. Gervais et St. Protais
Place Saint Gervais
75004 Paris

Souvenirs?

2012-02-11T00:01:00.001-04:00

One of my favorite markets is at Place d'Aligre, a daily market about which I have posted many times. On a recent Sunday I spied two large boxes with an assortment of plastic toys and trinkets. In looking at the photos I took, it seems that I might have wanted a single souvenir to perch at home among my little collection of Pez dispensers. I would not have wanted a dozen but just one, the right one, of course.

Certainly, I have bought my share of Paris souvenirs and have towels, hats, aprons from many cities around the world, but in recent years have been most happy with small little remembrances: an old key bought from a Paris friend in the Marais, an antique handkerchief with a hand-embroidered initial for my husband, fêves (bien sûr), old post cards and photographs, a Champagne glass, a grocery tote from the Monoprix, second-hand children's books, etc.

What about you?

Not counting edible items (macarons, fromage, baguettes), what do you buy as a reminder of your trip to Paris or any other place in the world, near or far?

Marché d'Aligre
Place d'Aligre
Métro Ledru-Rollin
75012 Paris

Au Panetier - boulangerie de tradition

2012-02-10T00:01:00.003-04:00

Au Panetier

On each trip to Paris, my "check list" includes two new boulangeries/pâtisseries. Sometimes I have a specific name (Moulin de la Vierge) but often I just stumble into one.

Au Panetier has been in the same place on places des Petits-Pères facing Basilique Notre-Dame-des-Victoires since 1896. The prices were extraordinarily inexpensive for 2 cafés and 2 pains au chocolat, enjoyed in the ambiance of the Art Nouveau surroundings. In the fifteen minutes we were here (on the first day) there was a revolving line of people making their selections. The extra treat is that this was just around the corner from our apartment! While you are there you can pick up a sourdough baguette hot from the wood-fired oven to take with you.

I just wished for a small taste of pain au chocolat this morning and un café served in a Cafés Richard cup. I hope that my friend Mary will enjoy one for all of us today!

bon weekend!

For more reflections go to James' Weekend Reflections

Au Panetier
10, places des Petits-Pères
75002 Paris

(I ignored the "no photos" sign, okay?)

Un landau

2012-02-09T00:01:00.001-04:00

Un landau - a pram - a baby carriage - une voiture d'enfant

With the challenges of the Métro, busses, and steps in Paris, how do you manage to stroll your bébé in this fine carriage? Holly has a very old one and I can vouch that they are as heavy as a car and bigger than some I have seen in Paris!

This one sits in the foyer of a building and is only one step up from the street. I have watched young mothers with two little children, three bags of groceries, and a portable stroller struggle in the Métro so I am assuming that this large model would only be for a jaunt to a nearby park or garden.

I posted one here in which the grandmère strolled the little Parisienne princess in Jardins du Ranelagh (near Musée Marmottan). The petite baby must have lived in the neighborhood.

Un landau

75001, Paris

Palais Royal

2012-02-08T00:01:00.000-04:00

As one walks out of the north end of the Jardin du Palais Royal,

this cavalcade of columns presents a maze of light and shadows

marking the exit from the quiet garden onto the streets of Paris.

Palais Royal

75001 Paris

Cimetière du Montparnasse

2012-02-07T00:01:00.000-04:00

Gone, but not forgotten by family and friends.

Cimetière du Montparnasse
75014, Paris

Expédition Polaire!

2012-02-06T00:01:00.002-04:00

I saw the above billboard in a Métro stop during my November visit and quickly snapped a (poor) shot before the doors closed. I even knew the station location but the billboard had been replaced before I could return for a better photo.

In January, Holly pointed it out on the side of a bus pulling away from the curb and I hastily "clicked." If you have ever seen the fountains of Versailles you would understand the amazement of the snow and ice on this scene. The Apollo fountain depicts Apollo the conqueror on his chariot pulled by four horses representing force and ardour. He is getting out of the water among sea monsters to enlighten the Earth as he represents the rising Sun. In Versailles all the statues of Apollo represent Louis XIV, the sun king.

This is the Apollo Fountain on a July day many years ago for contrast

To my Paris friends, take many snow photos to share with me.

Wish I was there to see the snow again

and would just die to see the Apollo Fountain in snow and ice!

Le Château de Versailles
78000 Versailles, France

Église Saint-Ephrem Le-Syriaque

2012-02-05T00:01:00.001-04:00

This is as close as I could get to Église Saint-Ephren Le-Syriaque and had to shoot from behind the iron gates.

As you can see from the poster this church is often filled with music and is known for its classical concerts. According to the signs, there is a regular Mass on Sundays. The first church edifice was built here in 1334, the second in 1685, and the one standing on the site today is the third built in 1733.

Here is a link to the concert schedule for 2012.

bon dimanche

Église Saint-Ephrem Le-Syriaque

15, rue des Carmes

75005, Paris

Oskar at Longchamp

2012-02-04T00:01:00.001-04:00

The shopping in Paris is "the cat's meow"

and Oskar enjoyed visiting the Longchamp boutique before he returned to the USA.

(Oskar is my travel kitty, given life by brattcat

and named for our first Paris apartment cat

and LaPouyette's Oskar who is recovering from an accident.)

French girl - reflecting

2012-02-03T00:01:00.002-04:00

Sitting in the window of Fauchon on Place de la Madeleine,

this young woman was reviewing her journal,

perhaps waiting on a friend, reflecting in the winter Paris sun.

Definitely a French girl

bon weekend

(for more reflections see James' Weekend Reflections)

Fauchon

30, place de la Madeleine

75008, Paris

La Chandeleur -- le jour des crêpes

2012-02-02T00:01:00.004-04:00

For this crêpe maker, every day is le jour des crêpes.

The Catholic feast day, La Chandeleur, celebrates the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple 40 days after Christmas, on February 2nd. It is also referred to as "Candlemas" or Candle Mass for the blessing of beeswax candles used in the church all during the year.

In France the day is celebrated with crêpes which must be eaten only after 8:00pm. If the cook can flip a crêpe while holding a coin in the other hand, the family is guaranteed a prosperous year. The many rituals and superstitions surrounding this date include the Groundhog Day test of whether or not the little animal sees his shadow.

We always have crêpes (if I am not traveling), and Holly goes out for her crêpes with friends. I think that my photo is going to give you two days of feasts in one as Sunday (February 5) is World Nutella Day! I think that I will have my crêpes with bananas, Nutella, ice cream, and a little dollop of Chantilly cream. It is after all a feast!

Will you have savory or sweet crêpes?

Rue Mouffetard

75005, Paris

Bistrot Victoires avec mes amis

2012-02-01T00:01:00.008-04:00

In our first hours in Paris, Holly and I met friends Peter,

Mary, and Virginia at Bistrot Victoires.

We plied our travel-weary selves with delicious tartines and Champagne.

As you can see from the menu, the tartines are made with Poilâne bread.

It was delicious enough that Holly and I came back

later in the week with sweet friend, Isabelle.

They did not seem to mind the crazy people with cameras

snapping every corner, zinc bar, and cranny!

Bistrot Victoires

6, rue la Vrillière

75001, Paris

Une fontaine de larmes

2012-01-31T00:01:00.001-04:00

In the warming light of a January afternoon,

this young woman was alone with her thoughts.

Jardin du Palais Royal

75001 Paris

Sempé at Hôtel de Ville

2012-01-30T00:01:00.000-04:00

The Sempé retrospective exhibition runs through March 31st at Hôtel de Ville. It is free and photos are permitted! Mary (Mad about Paris), Virginia (Paris Through My Lens), Peter (Peter's Paris), my daughter Holly and I all enjoyed the more than 300 original drawings. The soft light of the chandelier seen here is one of several projections on the walls of the exhibit hall.

If you have not been, there is still time. It is not to be missed!

Hôtel de Ville

Salle Saint Jean

5, rue Lobeau

75004 Paris

Look to the sky

2012-01-29T00:50:00.000-04:00

Église Saint-Étienne-du-Mont

bon dimanche

Église Saint-Étienne-du-Mont

1 place Ste-Geneviève

75005, Paris

Les toits de Passy

2012-01-28T00:01:00.003-04:00

The roofs, the shutters, the chimneys...

transformed by the magical afternoon light of winter

Rue de l'Annonciation

75016 Paris

When pigs fly...

2012-01-27T00:01:00.002-04:00

When pigs fly, as these surely plan to do, are they circumnavigating the globe?

I was not sure of the interpretation but found this window amusing.

Rue Vivienne

75002, Paris

The commute

2012-01-26T00:01:00.002-04:00

When I saw him coming in my direction,

I knew that I would only get one shot... He was FLYING!

So, would a Parisian say this is a scooter, a trottinette, or something else?

Il va travailler à trottinette?

Rue Saint Louis en l'Ile
Ile Saint Louis
75004, Paris

Photo shoot or wedding?

2012-01-25T00:01:00.001-04:00

I wish that I had spared the time to hang around and solve this mystery.

What are they doing? Is it a photographer and an artistic statement or a wedding shot?

Thoughts?

Passage Boiton
75013, Paris

Scouts Guides de France

2012-01-24T00:01:00.004-04:00

As I headed out on a Sunday morning in November, I encountered a group of scouts selling Calendrier 2012. After a long busy day with my camera, I encountered another group of the Scouts Guides de France wrapping up their day of calendar sales.

The one I bought sits in my office

and reminds me of this group of enthusiastic young people.

(Joyeux anniversaire, Nanette!)

Boulevard Saint-Germain
75005 Paris

Les trois chevaux

2012-01-23T00:01:00.001-04:00

The expressions on these carousel horses remind me that it is Monday.

The two horses on the right may have a tough week ahead.

What about you?

Je vous souhaite une bonne semaine!

Carrousel Venitien
Place Saint-Pierre
Montmartre
75018 Paris

Église Notre Dame de Lorette II

2012-01-22T00:01:00.003-04:00

Rich colors adorn every corner of this large church, much like a museum.

I would like to return for a concert on the Cavaille-Coll organ,

and to see if there are any mistresses in attendance.

Bon dimanche

Église Notre Dame de Lorette

18, bis rue de Chateaudun

75009 Paris

La Petite Rose

2012-01-21T00:01:00.002-04:00

Days of wine and roses?

Well, actually, it was a bottle of water and a single rose,

but the lighting in the salon de thé was enchanting.

La Petite Rose
11, boulevard de Courcelles
Métro Villiers
75008 Paris

Le Verger d'Aligre

2012-01-20T00:01:00.001-04:00

Le Verger d'Aligre is a little shop within the covered market of Marché d'Aligre.

My camera loved the bright colors of nature found here.

The constant line of people attest to its popularity and good produce.

Le Verger d'Aligre
Marché d'Aligre
75012, Paris

Le Pain au Naturel

2012-01-19T00:01:00.001-04:00

On a Sunday morning, the lines for the most popular bread items are set on a table in front of Le Pain au Naturel. Just ten minutes later the storefront was obscured with people in two lines, one leading into the store and one on the sidewalk for these delicious loaves and baguettes.

If you ever find yourself alone in Paris, a street market is a great place to sit in a café and watch the Parisians enjoying la vie quotidienne.

Le Pain au Naturel
5, place d'Aligre
75012 Paris

Architecture on a building

2012-01-18T00:01:00.000-04:00

On Rue Raymond Losserand (near the intersection of Rue Pernety)

I spied this interesting artwork on what would have otherwise been a blank wall.

The colors and subject matter are interesting but I did not find any information about either the artist or the interpretation.

Do you think that it has been in place for a few years,

or would it have already been covered with graffiti?

Rue Raymond Losserand

75014, Paris

Paris street artists Nemo and Jef Aerosol

2012-01-17T00:01:00.000-04:00

Seen here on Rue Vandrezanne, a collection of Paris' well-know graphic street artists,

Nemo and Jef Aerosol.

The rouge utility pole wrap is just an accessory en rouge.

Rue Vandrezanne
75013, Paris

A glimpse...

2012-01-16T00:01:00.003-04:00

If I were le chat domestique,

I would sit in this window with the hardy geraniums.

Cimetière Montparnasse

2012-01-15T00:01:00.001-04:00

A photographer can often capture a scene and not know the heartfelt story.

In this case, we can supply our own memories and a story perhaps.

Cimetière Montparnasse
Métro Raspail (there are several)
75014, Paris

La Butte Aveyronnaise

2012-01-14T00:01:00.001-04:00

This wine bar and restaurant has the rouge et blanc theme in the café chairs,

the restaurant decor, the tablecloths, and even in les toilettes!

It was a delicious setting for lunch with a friend in November.

La Butte Aveyronnaise
12, rue de la Butte Aux Cailles
75013, Paris

At any café in Paris

2012-01-13T00:01:00.001-04:00

At any café in Paris, your coffee will likely be served in a Cafés Richard cup.

What is Cafés Richard you ask?

They are a company whose fresh roasted beans

are delivered daily to Paris' cafés and restaurants.

I have several Paris cups and Paris mugs,

but why have I never bought the cup so well-known to Parisians?

I will be doing so this week if I can buy a single cup or two.

This is called their Perle Noire Cappuccino Cup and Saucer.

Perhaps I need the expresso, the black Florio design, the Richard Coffee Cup and Saucer with the logo... My carry-on may be a bit heavy on my return to the US.

Une chouette

2012-01-12T00:01:00.001-04:00

As I looked up and snapped this photo I wondered...

A pet?

A mascot?

A part of the balcony decor?

A sentry to scare away the pigeons?

A city garden

2012-01-11T00:01:00.001-04:00

When I met up with my Paris friend, Isabelle, in November, we walked to the park where she once lived. The cloistered park cannot be seen from the main street (Rue Pernety), but had a walking trail, a playground, little garden plots, and much more which I will show you on another day.

near Place Marcel Paul
Métro Pernety
75014, Paris

Une grande porte

2012-01-10T00:01:00.001-04:00

It is good to see the fine wood grains of an elegant door that has been well-cared for.

There are many showing signs of neglect and abuse.

Now, I want to walk into the courtyard that is surely beautiful,

maintained as well as the door.

----------------

I am on my way to Paris with daughter Holly and will be joined by Virginia (Paris Through My Lens) and Mary. I will be checking in daily and making comments here as possible. If I stayed long enough to check everything off my list, it would be mid-summer before my return!

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine
75012, Paris

Place Maubert

2012-01-09T00:01:00.001-04:00

Two of my usual stops on the way "home" greeting friends

who know what I like and who will make new suggestions.

Place Maubert
Métro Maubert-Mutualité
75005, Paris

Through a glass darkly...

2012-01-08T00:01:00.001-04:00

Looking out the windows on the front of Eglise Notre Dame du Travail,

one can just make out the small park across the cobbled street.

Bon dimanche

Eglise Notre Dame du Travail

36, rue Guilleminot

75014 Paris

Les yeux bleus

2012-01-07T00:01:00.002-04:00

Seen on Rue Butte aux Cailles, the eyes appear to follow you as you walk.

Do you think it would be a bit disturbing

to have them positioned right outside of your apartment window?

Could these be the eyes of Dr. Eckelberg, blue and gigantic?

Rue Butte aux Cailles
75013 Paris

Fêves pour la Galette des Rois

2012-01-06T00:01:00.001-04:00

I am ready for Epiphany and the Galette des Rois.

I do not think that I will be able to get all of my fêves into just one gallette!

I have collected fêves for years and was fortunate enough to meet a parisienne who was selling her husband's 40-year collection. I promised to cherish them as he did.

I will be looking for new ones next week to add to the collection.

Huîtres sur le pouce

2012-01-05T00:01:00.003-04:00

At Le Baron Rouge on Rue Théophile Roussel,

people were lined up to eat oysters on the street.

Monsieur was shucking quickly for the waiting crowd.

It was as close to a "feeding frenzy" as you will find in Paris.

(Merci, for the correction, mes amies -

I was "eating on the flea" and I meant "eating on the thumb")

Le Baron Rouge, wine bar
1, rue Théophile Roussel
75012 Paris

Les petites amies

2012-01-04T00:01:00.003-04:00

Walking in Parc de Monceau in November,

I encountered a group of 15 to 20 children on a park outing with their teachers.

Based on the ages (under 6 years), I guessed an école maternelle.

Each child was wearing a bright yellow vest with reflective stripes,

and from a distance they looked like a little swarm of bees darting about.

Parc de Monceau

Rue des Courcelles

75008 Paris

La photographe -- Holly à Paris

2012-01-03T00:01:00.001-04:00

When in Paris, you have to go to extremes to get just the right shot...

I do not think that wearing red will help with the "stealth" shots.

Opéra Garnier

Place de l'Opéra

75009 Paris

Paris chic - les vêtements de Galeries Lafayette

2012-01-02T00:01:00.002-04:00

While photographing the Galeries Lafayette Christmas tree,

I took a little shot in my favorite, almost-affordable, department.

Oh la la!

Galeries Lafayette

40, boulevard Haussmann

75009, Paris

Metro Chaussee d'Antin Lafayette

L'aube de la nouvelle année

2012-01-01T00:01:00.001-04:00

I have been touched this year by the friends I have met

both virtually and face-to-face from around the world through blogs.

Through my Paris experiences and photos

I have learned many secrets and stories of the city I love so.

The Paris Friends I have met in the markets, the patisseries, the bistrots, and galleries have enriched my visits.

Je vous souhaite une merveilleuse année 2012!

Solitude at Palais Royal

2011-12-31T00:01:00.004-04:00

Le Jardin du Palais Royal...

On a cloudy day in November, you can have the garden all to yourself.

(Joyeaux anniversaire, Daddy)

Le Jardin du Palais Royal

75002 Paris

Une tarte de baies

2011-12-30T00:01:00.001-04:00

This tart full of berries just makes my mouth water.

Does that mean it is good for you?

(Tant pis... I had something much more sinful, abundant in chocolate)

La Petite Rose
11, boulevard de Courcelles
75008 Paris

Le Grand Colbert

2011-12-29T00:01:00.001-04:00

I took this photo last December not knowing that Marie, our concierge (J), and I would enjoy a dinner here in April. We sat adjacent to Alan Alda, his wife, and another couple, but left them to dine in peace.

However, I was humming the theme from Mash off and on.

Don't you think that this would be a great place to ring in the new year?

Allons-y!

Le Grand Colbert
2, rue Vivienne
75002 Paris

La Tour Eiffel - en hiver

2011-12-28T00:01:00.003-04:00

It was a dark and snowy night but the twinkling of la Tour lights up the December sky.

(Taken from the Suresnes American Cemetery, in the suburbs of Paris, only five miles from city center. The 7.5 acre cemetery contains the graves of 1,541 Americans who died in World War I and 24 Unknown American War Dead from World War II. The cemetery is located high on the slopes of Mont Valerien)

Suresnes American Cemetery
123, Boulevard Washington
92150 Suresnes

Apiculteur parisien

2011-12-27T00:01:00.001-04:00

This friendly gentleman with a delightful sense of humor has a boutique, Les Abeilles,

selling honey and other "bee-products" on La Butte aux Cailles.

You can even buy all that you need to set up as a beekeeper.

He is an expert in les abeilles, miel, cire d'abeilles, a true apiculture parisien!

A purchase of honey and beeswax candles was made after a delightful visit with him in the petite shop. Two large vats of honey along with all the other products give the small space a sweet aroma.

Monsieur Schakmundès became my newest Paris friend,

and I will carry this portrait back to him in January.

(for Holly, the Queen Bee)

Les Abeilles
21, rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
75013 Paris

Carrousel Venitien - Place Saint-Pierre

2011-12-26T00:01:00.002-04:00

Wondering what to do in Paris this week?

You can ride 20 carousels for free (gratuit) between December 17th and January 1, 2012

between the hours of 10am and 7pm.

Here is the link to the list with the arrondissement and location of each.

The beautiful double-decker Carrousel Venitien is not one of them

but it has a wonderful view of Sacré Coeur.

(another counter-clockwise rotation)

Carrousel Venitien du XVIIIème Siècle
Place Saint-Pierre
Montmartre
75018 Paris

A child is born...

2011-12-25T00:01:00.001-04:00

Joyeux Noël

Église Saint Roch

284, rue Saint Honoré

75001 Paris

Gâteau d'anniversaire

2011-12-24T00:01:00.002-04:00

The imperfect gâteau, ready for the day...

I will be taking care of the treasured fêves which adorn the top layer, bien sûr

(Note the story from last year)

Les poupées

2011-12-23T00:01:00.001-04:00

Hoping that all the little French girls get the dolls of their dreams for Christmas. These are sweet, but ma chère amie Winterludes has the most charming and detailed dolls and she even weaves stories around them.

We met on our mutual birthday in November at a salon de thé in Passage Jouffroy and each exchanged a handmade cadeau. I cherish my little Winterlude doll with her exquisite hair and little dress, a delightful gift from a dear blog friend.

l'ourson en bois

83, rue Charenton

75012 Paris

La circulation de nuit

2011-12-22T00:01:00.001-04:00

Regular night traffic or last minute gift shoppers?

Rue de Rivoli at

Place de la Concorde

Place de la Concorde

75008 Paris

Chanel at Printemps

2011-12-21T00:01:00.000-04:00

If the "weather outside is frightful"

you can dream of warmer climes with this Printemps window.

Printemps

Boulevard Haussmann

75009 Paris

Parc de Monceau - artistes chinois

2011-12-20T00:51:00.000-04:00

This is one of six contemporary Chinese creations,

part of the exhibition Artistes Chinois à Paris,

found in Parc de Monceau until the end of December.

As with artists from around the world and over the centuries, the Parisian training and experience has had a major impact on generations of Chinese artists.

The Chinese artists featured in the park are currently living and working in Paris.

Parc de Monceau

Boulevard Courcelles

75009 Paris

Galeries Lafayette - Noël 2009 vs Noël 2011

2011-12-19T00:01:00.004-04:00

The grand dome sheltered the 66-foot tree in a traditional decor in 2009. The boxes were re-wrapped for a different color scheme in 2010. The giant red Christmas balls of 2008 were stunning. The "rock'n mode" for 2011 is quite different as seen in my post last week.

Let's hope that we just "rock away" from this year's theme when the season is over. The poster for Galleries Lafayette seen in the Métro stations just sums it up.

Galeries Lafayette
Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Église Notre Dame de Lorette

2011-12-18T00:01:00.001-04:00

There has been much said about the gaudy interior of Notre Dame de Lorette, but I found it elegant, adorned with 19th Century art and a Cavaille-Col grand organ.

The painter Eugene Delacroix lived nearby and was christened here in 1840.

The other stories of this large church refer to the "kept women" of the surrounding neighborhood. Many wealthy men of this period had mistresses as well as wives and it is said that all attended Sunday services.

Interesting, n'est-ce pas?

That little fact was not included in the church literature I picked up in November.

bon dimanche

Église Notre Dame de Lorette

18, bis rue de Chateaudun

75009 Paris

Se souvenant de George Whitman

2011-12-17T00:01:00.001-04:00

From the website of Shakespeare and Company...

"On Wednesday 14th December, 2011, George Whitman died peacefully at home in the apartment above his bookshop in Paris. George suffered a stroke two months ago, but showed incredible strength and determination up to the end, continuing to read every day in the company of his daughter, Sylvia, his friends and his cat and dog. He died two days after his 98th birthday.

Nicknamed the Don Quixote of the Latin Quarter, George will be remembered for his free spirit, his eccentricity and his generosity. He will be buried at Père Lachaise cemetery in the good company of other men and women of letters..."

Rest peacefully, gentle angel

Shakespeare and Company

37, rue Bûcherie

75005 Paris

Paris chic

2011-12-16T00:01:00.002-04:00

Do you need an elegant ballgown for your holiday parties?

Reflect on these... bon weekend!

Pronovias (of Barcelona)

7, rue Saint Roch

75001 Paris

Galeries Lafayette - Noel 2011

2011-12-15T02:01:00.002-04:00

Under the exquisite dome of Galeries Lafayette,

the large tree towers many levels above the rez de chaussée.

I was a bit disappointed to see the "Rock'n Mode" theme

and would have preferred something a bit more elegant

such as the hot pink packages and bows or the giant red balls of previous years.

I am a romantic at heart,

and rock'n the tree was not what I was wishing for.

Galeries Lafayette
Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

French girl XII

2011-12-14T02:01:00.002-04:00

With her blond hair flying,

she sped through the park dodging the other children.

She is practicing for her next, larger vehicle....

zoom-zoom!

Parc de Monceau

75008 Paris

Le camion vert?

2011-12-13T02:01:00.000-04:00

Although this little zoom-zoom was seen in a shop window,

I wonder its intended use.

Maybe we should take it out for a spin?

Rue St Benoit

75006 Paris

Bonhomme de neige - Dalloyau

2011-12-12T02:01:00.001-04:00

This snowman is not for the fainthearted, those on a diet... or on a budget.

He would be pretty cute to serve for a little dinner party!

Dalloyau

63, rue de Grenelle

75007 Paris

Métro Rue du Bac, Sèvres-Babylone

Romanian Orthodox Church of the Holy Archangels Michael, Gabriel and Raphael

2011-12-11T02:01:00.002-04:00

How could I have missed this church for so many years?

It is just around the corner from Place Maubert nestled between two ordinary buildings.

It was closed but showed signs of an active congregation.

I will be back...

bon dimanche

Romanian Orthodox Church of the Holy Archangels Michael, Gabriel and Raphael
9 bis, rue Jean de Beauvais
75005 Paris

Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois - Ginko leaves

2011-12-10T02:01:00.001-04:00

A carpeted path of gold...

Russian Orthodox Cemetery

Sainte-Geneviève-des-Bois

Printemps 2011 - Noël en Rouge

2011-12-09T02:01:00.003-04:00

The red laquer chest and le dragon rouge captivate les flaneurs

in front of this window at Printemps.

The animated windows are spectacular but the genius of this still-life holds its own!

To the right of this shot is an exotic crested bird

which I will post once I can "name" it.

bon weekend!

Printemps
Boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Un carrousel?

2011-12-08T02:01:00.010-04:00

At first glance this could be a rather sporty red Peugeot moto (with pink accents)

alongside a poster advertising soap from Reims.

With a longer view one sees a carrousel

(with counterclockwise rotation)

zoom-zoom!

(Joyeux anniversaire, ma chère Holly!)

Le Carrousel de la Gare Montparnasse
Métro Montparnasse Bienvenue

Le Square Trousseau IV

2011-12-07T02:01:00.004-04:00

I went looking for les trois flaneurs with a photo for each.

It was the same time, same park

on a Sunday morning, temperate weather, people about...

The three gentlemen were not there,

but there were many children running, playing, riding scooters and bikes.

The park was as lively as a circus!

(Happy Birthday, Cherie!)

Le Square Trousseau

Métro Ledru Rollin

75012 Paris

L'heure bleue

2011-12-06T02:01:00.001-04:00

As I was waiting (somewhat) patiently for the full moon,

I looked over my shoulder to find these shades of pinks, purples and blues.

My Paris is always full of surprises and treasures.

I know... she is not just mine, but alone this evening it felt like she was all mine.

Pont d'Arcole

(looking to Pont Notre Dame

and Pont au Change)

Le Reminet - un Paris bistrot

2011-12-05T02:01:00.002-04:00

With so many options to dine in Paris, how do you find a great, reasonable meal?

Certainly, you should check internet reviews, but I would offer that reading blogger favorites may be a good place to start. In June of 2010, Virginia (Paris Through My Lens) introduced me to Le Reminet. She had met Meredith Mullins for déjeuner at Le Reminet at Meredith's suggestion. The prices are quite reasonable at lunch if you guard your wine consumption and select from la formule. The meals have been excellent and the friends I have sent there agree. Often I enjoy a bit of a splurge at lunch and have just a light salad or baguette et fromage for dinner.

Le Reminet has a lovely aubergine-colored entrance, a charming ambiance,

and it is situated on a narrow street in the 5ième near Notre Dame.

Le Reminet

3, rue Grands Degrés

75005 Paris

Métro Maubert Mutualité

Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky Cathedral

2011-12-04T02:01:00.003-04:00

On Rue Daru in the 8ième arrondissement, this Russian Orthodox church is nestled in a predominantly Russian neighborhood. Although there are no photos allowed inside, the exterior is elegant, in the shape of a Greek cross. Each branch of the cross is terminated by an apse, topped with onion dome turrets.

Picasso was married to the dancer Olga Khokhlova in this church in 1918. The cathedral celebrated its 150th anniversary in September this year, and just a week ago a charitable auction featuring works of 29 Russian painters living in Paris was held to benefit restoration of the cathedral.

bon dimanche

Saint-Alexandre-Nevsky Cathedral

12, rue Daru

75008 Paris

Métro Ternes ou Métro Courcelles

Caryatid III

2011-12-03T02:01:00.009-04:00

Walking to Parc de Monceau on Avenue Hoche

I noticed two caryatids high on a building supporting the balcony of the deuxième étage.

As is typical with the caryatids seen in Paris, the two male figures were unique.

Look carefully on the left side of the figure at the bottom. Do you see a tail?

Now, look at his chest. Do you see a large paw with claws?

Now, look on top of his head. What do you see?

I did not notice the details until reviewing the photos later.

Do not forget to look up.

Caryatids, E Ricard et Le Foll,
Architectes, 1892
4, avenue Hoche
75008 Paris

Repetto VIII

2011-12-02T02:01:00.001-04:00

Dansez!

Repetto's window on Rue de la Paix is always on my list,

and the petite souris did not disappoint.

Dance, with all the joie de vivre in your heart

"Dancing can reveal all the mystery that music conceals." -- Charles Baudelaire

Repetto
22, rue de la Paix
75002 Paris

La Tour Eiffel, with a coat of living plants?

2011-12-01T02:01:00.003-04:00

From Place de Catalogne, la Tour suddenly came into view. When you look at this historical structure, can you imagine it clothed in green plants? There is a company "Ginger" which is proposing to drape the tower with a mantle of 600,000 plants. The story was leaked in Le Figaro, that there would be 12 tons of tubing attached to the tower's struts. "Thousands of hemp or sack-cloth bags would carry soil and a large variety of plants would be added gradually over the second half of 2012."

Can you imagine la Tour covered in living plants from head to toe?

La Tour Eiffel, without a coat of plants

seen from Place de Catalogne

75014 Paris

Printemps - Christmas Windows 2011

2011-11-30T02:01:00.004-04:00

The windows of the grand magasins on Boulevard Haussman have something for everyone.

The theme of the Printemps windows:

Noël, Rêves d'Evasion

(Happy Birthday, Renée!)

Printemps
64, boulevard Haussmann
75009 Paris

Le Moulin de la Vierge - boulangerie

2011-11-29T02:01:00.002-04:00

If you have been reading my blog for some time, you know how I enjoy "a hunt" and definitely love "a story." Before my recent trip to Paris, blog friend Louis la Vache (San Francisco Bay Daily Photo) asked if I could get a photo of Le Moulin de la Vierge on rue Vercingétorix (14ième arr.)

I coaxed Peter (Peter's Paris) to make the trip with me, and we were delighted with the pain from the wood-fired oven, the tile walls, the murals of women holding armfuls of wheat, the mural on the ceiling, the etched glass doors...

This is the story behind this charming boulangerie as told by Louis:

The boulangerie is operated by Basil Kamir, a former music promoter turned boulanger. He inadvertently became one of the leaders of the renaissance of artisan baking in Paris specifically and France in general.

Kamir was using the then-closed boulangerie as his office when an "urban renewal" project in the neighborhood deemed that the building would be destroyed. Basil loved the building with its marble counter, copper fixtures, and fine details. He couldn't allow the building to be destroyed.

Because of his work in the music business, he knew the Minister of Culture. A call was placed to the Minister, Basil pleading for intervention to save the boulangerie building. Calls were made, arms were twisted.

The Minister of Culture phoned Basil and said (in effect), "I've got good news and bad news. The good news is the building will be saved. The bad news is that it must be used again as a boulangerie."

Basil protested, "I don't know how to bake!"

To which the Minister replied, "Well, you had better learn!"

And he did. And in doing so, became a leader in the rediscovery of artisan baking, away from pain industriel, and also became one of the leaders in introducing biologique (organic) flours into baking.

But it didn't happen without some delicious Gallic drama.

A wrecking crew complete with a crane fitted with a wrecking ball showed up in front of the boulangerie. Somehow, the word didn't filter down through the bureaucracy that the building was not to be destroyed.

Basil practically came to blows with the crew. He went back into the boulangerie, and came out with a shotgun. The crew wouldn't back down, and neither would Basil. After some time of this impasse, Basil, took his shotgun and went to the basement, crawled into the wood-fired oven (at this point still long unused) with his shotgun and told the wrecking crew they would have to take him out!

Panicked calls were made and finally the wrecking crew got the Official Bureaucratic Word not to destroy the building. (You can get additional detail from Louis' post here - Merci beaucoup, Louis)

Here is the link to Peter's comprehensive post of the boulangerie.

Le Moulin de la Vierge

104, rue Vercingétorix

75014 Paris

Métro Pernety

Carrousel Jules-Verne -- Parc de Monceau

2011-11-28T02:01:00.001-04:00

This little carrousel is new to Parc de Monceau since my visit last April. It is called Carrousel Jules Verne and looks like a slice of the 19th century with its submarine, camel, and camion de pompiers. The setting in this park is perfect, enjoyed by children in neighborhood and by this wandering photographer.

You know that I love to find carrousels and what a treat to see this one where there had been none. Please note that the rotation is counterclockwise.

Carrousel Jules Verne

at the entrance of Parc de Monceau

Boulevard de Courcelles

75008 Paris

Église Notre Dame du Travail

2011-11-27T02:01:00.002-04:00

While on my way to another destination, I found this church which was built between 1899 and 1901 for the working neighborhood all in steel and iron. It is interesting that this church was constructed in the same period as La Tour Eiffel and perhaps by some of the same laborers.

The art nouveau design of the organ is nestled in the midst of the iron and steel, providing a soft touch to this interesting church.

bon dimanche

Église Notre Dame du Travail

36, rue Guilleminot

75014 Paris